Redwood Creek

Worth the Detour | June 2024

The Trip at a Glance

Location: Redwood National and State Parks, California

Trip length: Four days, three nights

Distance: 13.05 miles total from my recordings, including our day hike

Elevation gain: 789 feet total from my recordings

Route: Emerald Ridge Trail to Redwood Creek, returning up Tall Trees Trail

Difficulty: Challenging for us as beginners, with repeated creek crossings and massive fallen trees

Our First Night on Redwood Creek

After exploring the redwoods, it was time to grab our backpacking gear and head down to Redwood Creek. This was our first backpacking trip, and we were about to learn a lot!

We hiked downhill on Emerald Ridge Trail, then headed south, upstream along the creek. A few creek crossings later, we found a sandy spot to set up camp for the night. My recording came out to 1.24 miles from the car to our campsite.

We didn’t find an easily accessible tributary at our first campsite, but we had enough water with us to reach the next one. When backpacking here, the park says to get your drinking water from the little streams flowing into Redwood Creek, not the main creek itself. You still need to filter or purify that water. Definitely something to keep in mind when picking a campsite! National Park Service

Once we got our packs off and our tent set up, the sand was such a nice place to relax. We spent the evening sitting around the fire, listening to the creek and enjoying our spot for the night.

Our very first night backpacking. Pretty cool!

Wednesday: Finding Our Way Downstream

The next morning, we packed up camp and headed north, downstream. We recorded 4.66 miles to our next campsite, and those miles really tested us. I’m proud of us for making it!

We knew before the trip that we needed water shoes, and I’m so grateful we brought them. Once we were down along the creek and off the trail, we realized just how thick the brush was. Between the vegetation and the thorns, following the creek meant crossing it again and again.

We zigzagged downstream, crossing more times than I can count. Some crossings were nearly waist deep, with our packs on our backs! The current was strong in places. That combination of deep water and current made us nervous at times, so we took it slow.

Figuring out how to make our way downstream was a big part of the adventure, and we enjoyed the challenge. It was also more demanding than we’d expected.

There were also plenty of fallen trees to get over. And these were redwoods! Just imagine climbing over trees that massive with a backpack on. Going around through the thorny brush wasn’t much of an option. I enjoy a challenge, but Redwood Creek was definitely giving us one.

When we reached the Tall Trees area, we were able to hop onto the trail for a while and see some pretty impressive trees. This part of the Redwood Forest is actually home to the tallest trees in the world! Seeing those massive redwoods in person was pretty cool!

We crossed a bridge and passed some people camping nearby, then continued quite a ways downstream. Eventually, with no other people in sight, we found a nice big gravel bar with a little tributary. This would be home for the next two nights.

Life Along the Creek

This campsite turned out to be the coolest place for watching creatures, both big and small.

After seeing my first banana slug at Trillium Falls, we now had a whole bunch around camp! You had to watch where you stepped. They’re so cute!

There were also large groups of tadpoles in the water. We also spent a while watching a deer that came out of the trees across the creek from camp.

There was so much to see just sitting at camp.

Thursday: A Bear Before Breakfast

Around 4:00 a.m., we woke up to something that sounded large and heavy crossing the creek and walking around our camp. We thought it had to be a bear.

Once the sun came up, there was no doubt we had a bear. I was a little nervous at first, but we managed to scare it off. Our first backpacking trip, and we had a bear walking by camp! That’s an experience I’ll never forget.

We also watched an otter playing in the creek for a little while. A small pool beside our tent had snails, little fish, and tiny creatures carrying what looked like hollowed-out sticks as their homes. Those were really cool to watch.

Later, we headed farther downstream for a day hike. We recorded four miles out and back, and the creek crossings were less strenuous with only our day packs.

The water was so blue, and it was all just beautiful.

When we got back, we relaxed at camp and caught glimpses of a black bear crossing back and forth a little ways downstream. I’m assuming it was the same one from that morning, but who knows!

We also watched a cute family of ducks swim by a couple times, a mama followed by a row of babies. They had little tufts of feathers on the backs of their heads. Between the bear, otter, ducks, deer, tadpoles, and banana slugs, this campsite gave us plenty to watch.

Friday: The Hike Out

Friday morning, we packed up camp and got ready to hike out. We headed upstream, then climbed Tall Trees Trail back to our car at the trailhead.

My recording came out to 3.15 miles with 697 feet of elevation gain. That climb with our packs was harder than I thought it would be, but we made it!

I’m really proud of us for this trip. We crossed deep water, climbed over massive fallen redwoods, and figured out our way along the creek. We also had time to relax and watch so many cool creatures around camp.

We learned a lot about what we’re capable of and what to keep in mind for future backpacking adventures. For our very first trip, this was a challenge, and it was so worth it.

A Few Things to Know

These distances are from my recordings. Our trip totaled 13.05 miles, including the four-mile day hike. Our mileage reflects the route we took and where we chose to camp.

The creek crossings were a big part of our trip. Water shoes were one thing we were very glad we brought. Some crossings were nearly waist deep during our visit in June 2024, and conditions may be different when you go.

Plan your permits and parking. Backcountry camping requires a permit. If you’re parking at Tall Trees Trailhead for your backpacking trip, the current instructions also require Tall Trees all-day parking reservations covering your stay. Check the National Park Service backcountry permit page before planning your trip.

Trillium Falls

Worth the Detour | June 2024

The Trail at a Glance

Location: Redwood National and State Parks, California

Distance: 2.89 miles (our recorded loop)

Elevation gain: 454 feet on our route

Difficulty: Moderate

Route: Loop

Trail map: AllTrails

Hiking Trillium Falls

Trillium Falls was such a cool hike through the redwoods! There were some massive trees along the trail and a little waterfall tucked into the forest. Definitely worth the detour.

The waterfall was also where I saw my first banana slug! I was pretty excited about it. They're so cool looking, with that bright yellow color.

Later, we'd have a whole banana slug invasion at camp and realize they were everywhere. But this first one was a little highlight of the hike. Even after seeing a bunch more, I still thought they were cool!

There was plenty to photograph besides the trees and waterfall, too. I took pictures of what I believe were wild iris, rhododendron, and redwood sorrel along the way. It's easy to spend so much time looking up at the redwoods that you miss all the little things growing underneath them.

A Few Things to Know

Plan your visit. The trail starts at the Elk Meadow Day Use Area, just off Davison Road. Check the National Park Service trail page for visitor information before you go.

Choose your route. The falls are about half a mile from the trailhead, so you can turn around there for a shorter hike or continue around the full loop. Our mileage and elevation gain above are from the loop we recorded.

Fern Canyon

Worth the Detour | June 2024

The Trail at a Glance

Location: Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, California

Distance: 1.49 miles (our recorded loop)

Elevation gain: 159 feet on our route

Difficulty: Easy for us, with creek crossings

Route: Loop

Trail map: AllTrails

Hiking Fern Canyon

Fern Canyon was an easy hike for us, but probably the coolest trail I've ever done!

It's exactly what it sounds like: a narrow canyon with ferns growing along the vertical walls, which rise about 50 feet above the creek. Water trickles down the sides, keeping everything damp and green.

You walk right through the creek bed, with fern-covered walls on both sides. It's such a beautiful place!

The summer footbridges were in place when we visited, which helped with some of the creek crossings. I'd still recommend water shoes with good traction and being prepared to get your feet wet.

Fern Canyon was also used as a filming location for The Lost World: Jurassic Park (1997) and the BBC series Walking with Dinosaurs. With those fern-covered walls, it's easy to see why they chose it.

A Few Things to Know

Expect wet feet and uneven footing. Walking through the creek and getting around fallen trees can add a few obstacles. The seasonal footbridges only help with part of the route. Check the National Park Service trail page for current conditions and closures.

Plan ahead if you're driving in. A day-use reservation is required from May 15 through September 15 for vehicle access to Fern Canyon or Gold Bluffs Beach. This is a vehicle-access reservation rather than a hiking permit. Book online in advance or the day before; same-day reservations aren't available. An entrance fee also applies, unless covered by an accepted pass or qualifying campground reservation.

Camping nearby? Visitors with a current Gold Bluffs Beach or Elk Prairie Campground reservation don't need a separate day-use reservation. Bring your current campsite tag. Check the National Park Service reservation page for the latest requirements before your trip.

Badlands National Park, South Dakota

Worth the Detour | June 2024

The Trails at a Glance

Location: Badlands National Park, South Dakota

Trails Hiked: Door Trail, Window Trail, Notch Trail, Cliff Shelf Nature Trail, and Saddle Pass Trail

Distance: Individual trail distances are listed below. We walked all five trails to their ends, including the marked route beyond the Door Trail boardwalk.

Difficulty: Easy to strenuous, depending on the trail

Terrain: Boardwalks, stairs, steep climbs, loose rock, and exposed ledges

Trail Information: Badlands National Park Hiking Trails

Our First Stop: The Badlands

In June 2024, we set out on a road trip to California, with a few adventures planned along the way. Our first stop was Badlands National Park in western South Dakota, where we spent the weekend before continuing west.

We stayed at the Badlands/White River KOA near Interior, and with temperatures in the 90s, I was pretty thankful we'd chosen this campground.

Another campground we'd looked at was out in the open, with hardly any shade. The KOA had plenty of trees along the White River, which sounded much better for a hot June weekend.

Of course, our last-minute plans meant we didn't exactly get our pick of campsites.

We ended up with what had to be one of the smallest, most awkward tent spots in the campground and the spot sat lower than the surrounding ground.

Still, we got everything set up and settled in for the evening.

What could possibly go wrong?

Hiking the Badlands

We spent Saturday exploring Badlands National Park, hiking five different trails throughout the day.

The landscape here feels like a whole different side of South Dakota. Steep ridges, narrow canyons, and layers of rock stretch as far as you can see.

One of my favorite things about hiking is getting to explore beyond what you can see from the road. The Badlands gave us plenty of opportunities for that!

I was also pretty grateful for the new hiking boots I'd gotten before the trip. Some of these trails have a lot of loose rock and gravel, especially on the steeper climbs, and having decent traction made a difference.

Door Trail

Distance: 0.26 miles round trip on the boardwalk, with additional walking beyond it | Difficulty: Easy

Door Trail begins with a boardwalk leading through a natural opening in the Badlands Wall, appropriately known as "the Door."

Beyond the boardwalk, numbered posts mark the route through the rock formations. We followed them all the way to the trail end before heading back.

I liked being able to get out among the formations. The farther we went, the more we could appreciate just how vast this landscape is.

It's a fairly easy hike, but the scenery makes it well worth exploring beyond the boardwalk.

Window Trail

Distance: 0.26 miles round trip | Difficulty: Easy

Window Trail is one of the shortest hikes in the park, but it still offers a great view.

The boardwalk leads to a natural opening in the Badlands Wall, where you can look out over a canyon filled with eroded rock formations.

It's a quick stop and doesn't require much effort, making it an easy addition while exploring the nearby trails.

Notch Trail

Distance: 1.25 miles round trip | Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous

Notch Trail was one of the more adventurous hikes of the day. It starts through a canyon, surrounded by towering Badlands formations. We also spotted prickly pear along the way.

A steep wooden log ladder takes you up the hillside. Climbing it was one of the highlights. It's not something you encounter on your typical hiking trail!

At the top, the trail continues along a narrow ledge, with exposed sections and loose gravel underfoot. This was another place where I appreciated having good traction!

Eventually, we reached the Notch, a natural opening overlooking the White River Valley. The view was pretty incredible!

Between the ladder, the ledges, and the view over the valley, this was one of the most memorable hikes of the day.

Cliff Shelf Nature Trail

Distance: 0.86 miles round trip | Difficulty: Moderate

Cliff Shelf Nature Trail was a bit different from the other hikes.

Rather than climbing through exposed rock formations the entire way, this loop winds through an area of juniper trees perched along the Badlands Wall.

The trail follows a combination of boardwalks, stairs, and natural paths, climbing about 200 feet in elevation.

It was interesting to see an area with so much vegetation surrounded by the otherwise rugged, dry landscape.

The juniper trees were a welcome change of scenery after all that exposed rock.

Saddle Pass Trail

Distance: 0.68 miles round trip | Difficulty: Strenuous

Saddle Pass might be short, but don't let the distance fool you.

This trail climbs steeply up the Badlands Wall, with plenty of loose rock and gravel along the way. It was definitely another spot where I was thankful for my new hiking boots.

Once we made it to the top, we were rewarded with some great views over the White River Valley and the surrounding formations.

It's amazing how different the Badlands look once you're standing above those ridges.

Not a long hike by any means, but it certainly makes you work for the view.

The trail distances above reflect the National Park Service's current listings and may differ from older guides. The 0.26-mile distance for Door Trail covers only the boardwalk; we continued to the end of the marked route, so our hike was longer.

A Wedding, a Storm, and a Flooded Campsite

After spending the day hiking, we had a small family wedding to attend that evening. The ceremony took place overlooking the Badlands, which made for a pretty incredible backdrop. Afterward, we headed to Wall for supper and the reception.

Meanwhile, back at our campground, South Dakota weather was doing what South Dakota weather does best.

A storm had rolled through while we were away, and when we returned that night, we discovered our campsite was completely flooded.

Remember that little low spot where we'd managed to squeeze our tent?

Yeah, that wasn't such a great spot after all.

We ended up moving the tent in the dark to the side of a small hill. With barely enough room for it to begin with, we didn't have many options.

It wasn't the most level sleeping arrangement, but we managed to stay dry and sleep comfortably, even at a slight slant!

Not quite how we'd planned to end the day, but we won't forget that campsite anytime soon.

One Last Drive Through the Badlands

Sunday morning, we packed up camp and continued west toward California. Before leaving the Badlands behind, we took the scenic route along the western stretch of Badlands Loop Road.

We passed through the Yellow Mounds area, where the landscape looked noticeably different from the formations we'd spent the previous day hiking through. Instead of the mostly gray and tan ridges, these hills were layered with shades of yellow, pink, and purple.

We stopped at a couple more overlooks along the way, including Pinnacles Overlook, taking in some final views of the rugged landscape before leaving the park.

Along a dirt road through the open prairie, we spotted a lone bison. Just one, out there by itself, but always a cool sight to come across!

From there, we continued west toward California.

Between five hikes, a wedding, and our unexpectedly flooded campsite, we'd already packed quite a bit of adventure into the first weekend of our trip.

And we still had a long way to go before reaching California!

A Few Things to Know

The hikes vary quite a bit in difficulty. Door and Window are relatively easy, while Notch and Saddle Pass involve steep terrain, loose gravel, and some exposure. Don't let the short distances fool you.

Wear good hiking shoes. I was especially thankful for my new boots on the steeper trails. The loose gravel and rock can make climbing and descending more difficult than you'd expect.

Be prepared for the heat. There isn't much shade on most of these trails, and summer temperatures can get pretty high. Bring plenty of water and consider hiking earlier in the day.

Keep an eye on the weather. Conditions can change quickly, and Notch and Saddle Pass can be treacherous during or after rain. Apparently, it's also worth paying attention to whether your tent is sitting in the lowest part of the campground.

Camping: We stayed at Badlands/White River KOA, near Interior, South Dakota. The shade trees were a big advantage during our visit, although I'd recommend paying a little more attention to your specific tent site than we did.